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Tutorial - Antialias and coloring by TomPreston Tutorial - Antialias and coloring by TomPreston
Copyright 2012 Andrew Dobson
Read the latest “So, You’re A Cartoonist” at the following [link]

This goes into more detail about my coloring process and how I deal with paint program's natural tendency to apply anti-alias to my work.

In Photoshop you can deselect antialias for filling in your colors. I recommend always deselecting antialias whenever possible unless you're trying to make the edges smooth and blurry or shrinking the image for the internet.

You can use anti-alias when filling in with the paint bucket to let it automatically "smooth" out the edges of the artwork, but if you need to change a color later it can be messy and time consuming, which is why I tend to let Photoshop worry about that later and leave my flats very simple easy to alter.

A user by the name of Alenonimo over on the SYAC site recommended that when reducing digital art in Photoshop to make sure it's set to Bilinear and not Bicubic. Bicubic is more for photographs, not cartoon artwork and Bilinear gives a better image reduction for those types of images. Thank you Alenonimo!

This is not the best way to color, nor is it the only way. It's my way and I think it's a very efficient method of coloring, especially when you have a large surplus of artwork to produce in a very short amount of time. I guess you could say it's very "animation" oriented, as I learned this process by making 2-D animation before the rise of Flash.
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:iconsyncallio:
SynCallio Mar 14, 2014  Hobbyist General Artist
Whoa. I had no idea. This is very useful!
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:iconscenikart:
ScenikART Jan 17, 2014  Hobbyist Digital Artist
I am aware this tutorial is old, but do you seriously draw on paper first and then shrink it? Why not trace over it on another layer or just draw directly into the program?
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:icontompreston:
Outdated tutorial is outdated. I don't do this anymore.

However, to answer your question.. I did use to draw and ink on paper, scan it in, then color it. After that I made 3 separate files. A small internet ready JPG. the full size Tiff. And the raw PDS file in case I needed to change anything. I inked on paper because it felt the most natural to me and I haven't yet realized the power and potential of Illustrator and vectoring lineart.

I always scanned the artwork LARGE so that when it eventually WAS shrunked down for media (be it the internet or print), the resolution would smooth itself out. Which is a common trick that artists often use. (general rule of thumb is to draw 120% larger than the finished product).

Hope that answers your questions. Please keep in mind that I do not do this anymore.
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:iconrandomperson1310:
ALL THE WASTED YEARS OF NOT KNOWING THIS!!!
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:iconraptecclawtooth:
RaptecClawtooth Aug 6, 2013  Hobbyist General Artist
And  for simple things like this one become better 
 
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:iconraythedeku:
Can  you do this in Ms paint?
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:iconalexandercomics:
AlexanderComics May 14, 2013  Hobbyist General Artist
This is very helpful
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:iconedragongirl:
this saves me SO MUCH TIME!!!!!!
thanks so much for the tip.
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:icon8hadragana:
8hadragana Jan 14, 2013  Student General Artist
Next time I scan a drawing I'll try this. Usually I trace over every single line with the curve tool, and then I erase everything else by hand. I'm currently trying something new (to me anyway) by using layering to "trace" over my drawing and then erase the layer with original drawing while keeping the clean lines. It takes a long time though, so I'll test this method to try to speed up the process. Thank you!
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:iconrosalieotaku:
RosalieOtaku Dec 25, 2012  Hobbyist Traditional Artist
WOW! Thank you! I never knew how to fix that!!!
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